Tucked away in the foothills of Southwest Denver, The Fort {19192 Highway 8, Morrison; 303.697.4771} brings us back to a more primitive time. Guests are whisked away to the camp-side tables of the trappers, fur-traders, and American Indians of the 19th century. Regional game such as elk, bison, and quail dominate the menu and tempt you to abandon your comfort zone and try something new.
Here’s a taste of our recent visit to this icon of Colorado dining.
Nothing like a glass of tobacco, gun powder, and whiskey to make you feel tough
The past come to life
19th century relics adorn the walls of The Fort’s adobe structure, modeled after—and even constructed with original brick from—the famous Bent’s Fort, earning the building a spot on the National Register of Historic Places.
Soothing Native American flute music fills the restaurant and a mountain man dressed in authentic garb from the 1800s makes his way around the tables to regale guests with stories and tips for survival.
Diners should be sure to check the backs of their chairs for engraved golden plaques, because they may be sitting in the same seat as one of the many famous people who have dined there over the years.
Roasted Buffalo Marrow Bones
The first frontier at The Fort
Traditional fare begins with the appetizer menu with Roasted Bison Marrow Bones, known as “prairie butter” to early pioneers, sprinkled with salt, pepper, and jalapeño sauce. Or try the Braised Bison Tongue, the 19th century’s finest gourmet meat. The Fort’s signature Trade Whiskey is a concoction made from an old fur-trade recipe. This spicy old Western tradition—made with fine bourbon and flavored with red pepper, tobacco, and black gun powder—is a great addition to any appetizer.
Game Plate
The historical entrées
The main course follows with an attention to locally sourced meats with cuts of bison from select Rocky Mountain ranches and Colorado natural beef raised by Roy Armstrong on the Great Western Grazing Company Dry Creek Ranch in Rocky Ford.
The Fort’s Game Plate, the most popular dish, offers a chance to try it all with a bone-in elk chop, buffalo sirloin medallion, and grilled teriyaki quail. For the ambitious or just extra-hungry, a side of Thomas Jefferson’s favorite Mac ‘n’ Cheese “Pudding” from an early-1800s White House recipe will add another historic layer to the meal.
Post-dinner sweets and drinks
After-dinner drinks round out the meal and give a moment to prepare for dessert. The Fort Coffee is mixed with Bailey’s Irish cream and Frangelico and pairs well with the rich chocolate desserts like the Negrita, made with chocolate lovers in mind. This signature dessert is made with a blend of dark chocolate whipped with Myer’s rum and served in a chocolate tulip cup.
By Sterling Stowe | Contributor
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