Nestled in Denver’s Writers Square, you’ll find a culinary haven for European delights: Red Square Euro Bistro {1512 Larimer Street, #38r, Denver; 303.595.8600}. Since it’s not the easiest to find, it is definitely worthy of the title “a treasure.” The rich red interior and flowered patio transport you to a modern take on the classic European bistro, and the entreés and vodka infusions will transport you to the wonderful limbo of a food coma and heaven.
Due to the fact that the restaurant’s vodka list is the largest in Denver (think infusions like horseradish, strawberry, and dill), Red Square has been mistaken for a strictly Russian restaurant. And while there is nothing wrong with fig-infused vodka or a stroganoff—which are, happily, both available—new Executive Chef Brandon Becker draws inspiration from all of Europe. Here’s a tour of Red Square’s menu:
To start
In case the seafood-averse are dying to try a delightful nibble of what we seafood-lovers call calamari, Chef Becker offers a loophole through his own interpretation of crispy squid. The Hearts Of The Sea feature calamari-style hearts of palm paired with a lemon caper aïoli and fresh cocktail sauce, packed with as much flavor and delight as the original dish.
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Hearts of The Sea
Don’t worry carnivores and pescetarians, you have not been forgotten. Start your meal with the Blinchiki, chive crêpes filled with crab, house tartar sauce, and fennel slaw; or the Steak Tartare presented in an impressive cornucopia and complemented by black garlic aïoli, asparagus, radish, spring pickles, and quail egg.
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Steak Tartare
Entrées
Where to begin with the entreés … Colorado Rack of Lamb? Or perhaps the Boulder Natural Chicken featuring chicken both confit and salsify with carrots, hearts of palm, au jus, and peas. What about the Pan-Seared Grouper accompanied by lobster dumplings? Yes, lobster dumplings, and yes, we think it is safe to deem Chef Becker a culinary overachiever based on the brilliance of this dish, which is completed by a drinkable lobster emulsion and romanesco.
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Pan Seared Grouper with Lobster Dumplings
Dessert
If you’re not already salivating, we’ve got a final selling point for you. The presentation. The colors, the textures, and the shapes complement the tastes and flavors in the most beautiful way. Seriously, skip the art museum and experience some unbelievably crafted artistry by Chef Becker. The impressively constructed plates bring everything full circle, providing you with an experience that pleases and tantalizes all of the senses.
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Deconstructed “Almond Joy”
By Jane O’Connor | Contributor
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