Maria Empanadas’ empanadas
One of the latest vehicles for hipster bastardization, empanadas originally come from a place of simplicity, consumed in mass quantities all throughout Latin America. From the boulevards of Buenos Aires and Santiago de Chile to the chaos of Bogotá and Caracas, empanadas are as much an expression of terroir as a Burgundy Chablis. Luckily enough, a combination of strong Latin presence and an embracing of traditional foods has led to a burgeoning ‘nada scene in the Mile High City.
In no particular order, here are some of our favorite empanadas in Denver:
Maria Empanada
Owner Lorena Cantarovici replicates her family recipes made in the classic Argentine style at Maria Empanada {1298 South Broadway, Denver; 303.934.2221}. Flaky, baked half moons come filled with options traditional (beef, corn, chicken), innovative (Caprese, vegan veggie, spinach with béchamel), and sweet (banana with Nutella, dulce de leche, and pears poached in Marsala wine). Also on the menu are Spanish tortillas and tartas, essentially hearty, savory, vegetable-filled quiches. Everything comes with a serving of chimichurri, dubbed by the Denver Post’s William Porter as the best he’s ever had.
Zengo
While Zengo {1610 Little Raven Street, Denver; 720.904.0965} may be known more for its Asian small plates, sushi, and dishes straight from the wok, you’ll also find Owner/Chef Richard Sandoval’s Latin expertise littered throughout the menu. And you can probably count on empanadas figuring into this smattering of Latin dishes at Zengo. Currently, Sandoval is serving Thai Chicken Empanadas with chile poblano, Oaxaca cheese, and mango-curry salsa.
Empanada Express
Empanadas accompany arepas on the varied and authentically Venezuelan menu at Empanada Express {4301 West 44th Avenue, Denver; 303.955.8362}. Typical of northern South America, these ‘nadas are deep fried rather than baked. Cheeselovers fear not: a large sign reading “All Fillings Come With Cheese” headlines the selections, which range from typical Pabellon Criollo (braised beef, black beans, and sweet plantains) and Reina Pepiada (chicken salad with avocado) to meat, fish, and exciting vegetarian options such as chile relleno and scrambled eggs with plantain. ‘Nadas can be turned into a lunch plate with rice and beans, and don’t miss exotic fruit juices such as pucker-worthy lulo (sour orange) and milky guanabana (soursop).
Buenos Aires Pizzeria
This Argentinean spot may be a pizzeria, but it also churns out mountains of ‘nadas on the side, often using the same dough and toppings. The large menu at Buenos Aires Pizzeria {1319 22nd Street, Denver; 303.296.6710} features 17 different options, including Argentine chorizo, chicken pesto with sundried tomatoes, and solid veggie choices such as mushroom and red pepper and butternut squash and carrot. Buen Provecho!
Leña
Offerings at Leña {24 Broadway, Denver; 720.550.7267}, a pan-Latin restaurant in Baker, include baked green plantain dough filled with smoked mushroom, goat cheese, and poblano peppers and a crunchy pork and chicken option filled with golden raisins and slathered in spicy, garlicky chimichurri.
Work & Class
While certainly not short of accolades or attention, Work & Class {2500 Larimer Street, Suite 101, Denver; 303.292.0700} earns a spot on this list for one off-color, delicious reason: blue corn ‘nadas, stuffed full of zucchini, squash, and Oaxaca cheese, accompanied by smoked tomato sauce.
By Max Nathanson | Contributor
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